High Performace Mountor Mount install
2000 Celica GT-S
The tools I used:
Jack & Jack stands, Torque Wrench, 14mm Wrench & Socket, Socket Wrench, Braker-Bar, Socket Extension, Flat Head Screwdriver, 10mm Socket/Wrench, a few other optional tools, and the Motor Mount
1st
Jack up the car, and put it on Jack Stands. This will allow access to the bolts on the bottom of the car, as well as allowing you to more easily access the motor mount once the plastics are removed from the under carriage.
Two of the 4 bolts in the picture above (click in red box for more detail) hold the motor mount in place and will need to be removed. Use a 14mm socket (one bolt my require an extension to access) and a breaker-bar to get these loose (some have said they didn't need a breaker-bar to get the bolts loose, but I find it to be necessary). While your under there, you'll also want to remove the plastics using a flat head screw driver, and a 10mm socket or wrench. The plastic on the passenger side will come off easily, and will allow all the access you need (unless you have the stock intake box and don't want to remove it - then you'll have to remove the driver side plastic as well).
2nd
There is a long 14mm bolt with a nut on the other end, that holds the motor mount to the bracket on the engine. Getting it loose, took some effort with a breaker bar, and an additional 14mm wrench to hold the bolt, on the other end, in place. As you can see in the picture below, I wedged the wrench on the bolt, and up against the metal sub-frame so as to keep it from moving while I used both hands on the braker-bar. Once it was loose, I was able to unscrew the nut with my hand, then tap the end of the bolt to get it out.
With the bolts removed, the mount is free to be wiggled out of place, and the new mount put in it's place.
3rd
After wiggling the new mount in place, put the bottom bolts back in loosely, to hold the mount in place so you can squeeze the long 14mm bolt back in. I had to pry the engine up a bit to get it to go in, but with a little persistence it should slide right into place.
With all the bolts in place we can now tighten them down. The only documentation I could find on torque specs was for an automatic transmission, but they should be similar (I tightened my down a bit more just to be sure - plus my torque wrench isn't the most accurate). The two bottom bolts are 38 ft. lbs., and the long bolt is 59 ft. lbs. If you don't have a torque wrench (and are as strong as me) then the bottom ones should be tightened down fairly tight with a standard sized ratchet, and the long bolt should be tightened snugly with a long breaker bar (if all you have is a ratchet, you're probably fairly strong if you were able to get it off that way in the first place).
4th
Finally, put everything back together, clean up the area, and enjoy.
My car feels so much better over all. There is a little more vibration at low idle, but nothing to be concerned about. Wheel hop is gone, but now I need better tires for traction because it's so much easier to spin them. The shifter feels smother as well. Over all, I have to say it's an excellent upgrade, but then I've always complained about the stock motor mounts being too soft (I even had the dealership look at them a couple of times to make sure they were ok). This, along with my LSD, and Heavy Duty Clutch should greatly help my launches at the track.